My big plan was to go to the other side of the Rio Ozama and go to the yellow and black lighthouse on the point. We never made it there. The plan changed.

Teli hates to go where she does not know and she hates to go up on Calle las Damas. She loves the part where the nuns’ houses are. We go there almost everyday. If we have head the opposite direction and go toward Plaza España she jumps and tries to tell me not to go this way. This day she did not get her way. She had her way the day before; this day was my turn to choose the route. I got my way and we went on our walk to parts unknown.

We went down the stairs at the end of Calle el Conde and to the main road that heads into the city, Avenida George Washington, better known at The Malecon.

Stairs at the end of Calle El Conde

Don Diego Terminal Santo Domingo

Casa Reales and the Capilla los Remedios from Don Diego Terminal

Alcazar de Colon from the Puente Flotante

Teli on the floating bridge

The Puente Flotante gears

Selling fish at Rio Ozama

I wasn’t really sure where to go as I haven’t walked that way for so many years so I just kept going until I saw the sign for the San Souci Port.

There was a small shaded park in front of the road to enter the port. The park could have been really nice and inviting but, sorry to say, was in really bad shape. This is not a good representation of the country considering this is where people who come to visit us via the sea see when they leave the confines of the terminal. My opinion, this park should be nice and clean as it is the first park many visitors catch a glimpse of. It should be inviting for people just wanting to walk or sit for a bit in the shade. I tried to make the pictures I took look good but really the park needs some serious attention.

Park at the entrance to Port San Souci

Bench in park as entrance to Port San Souci

Port San Souci

When we passed the Marina Bartolome Colon I wanted to enter to take a few pictures but the security stopped us so I just took a few pictures from the entrance.

Plaza Marina Bartolome Colon entrance

Plaza Marina Bartolome Colon

As we were walking a Taxi I know passed the opposite direction. Did he yell hi to me? Noooo. He yelled out the window to Teli. Same with another car that passed. The people inside did not yell out to say hi to me. They yelled Telis’ name. The famous Dominican Dog lol.

We crossed the floating bridge again. We were back on the Colonial Zone side of the road finally. We entered at the Puerta de las Atrazanas into the old ship yards and headed to the shelter of the Navel Museum (which is still closed for remodeling).

Shelter at the Naval Museum

Entrance to the Naval Museum

Calle General Cabral nice graffiti

Calle General Cabral and Fuerte Carena

After the rain stopped and we were finished talking to Chino Teli and I headed down Calle Isabel la Catolica. There was a group of College students with cameras making a film in front of the Juan Pablo Duarte Museum. I had to stop and see what was going on. The students were making a film about Duarte, one of the founding fathers of Dominican Republic, answering the question “What if Duarte was returned to his country today?”.

Filming at the Duarte Museum

Teli and the Anime Cat at the German Dominican Center

Teli in her corner Colmado

Teli home with her bone on the sofa

Here is a little map of our walk-about.

Map of our Walk-About 3-17-2013

Having a Birthday Party in the Colmado

Sitting and relaxing in the park.

The big boys playing in the water from the fire hydrant

The kids playing in the water.

Sitting relaxing in Parque Colon

Getting ice cream form the Bon Man.

Taking a little nap in the Colmado

Hanging out in the Colmado with friends and a cold drink.

Having a snack of Potato Chips with ketchup. What else could one want??!!LOL!

Day 1 – Sunday Oct. 23, 2011
I always try to go to a river or some area quiet for the day my son Billy Jay (to see his memories in pictures)died (Oct. 25). I just need to get away and be near fresh water even if its only just a few minutes. So this year I decided to go to San Jose de Ocoa and check out the area to put information on my web site, combining work and pleasure. I was there once many years ago for about an hour during their Virgen de Altagracia festival they hold each January for the Altagracia Day. I took some videos (see the videos I took in San Jose de Ocoa here)
and had a nice time so I figured I needed to go and learn more about this quiet little town.

I caught the bus in Parque Independencia in the Colonial Zone at 12 noon. The bus driver, Julio Manuel, was very nice. He took my suitcase and put it in the bus. We talked for a bit before the bus took of. When he told me it was time I got in my seat and settled in for a new adventure.

The bus was going so slow but I finally figured out they had a schedule to keep and since it was Sunday and there was no traffic on the roads they had to account for that and go slow to keep on time. But it seemed like it took forever, driving 5 miles per hour in the city picking up people here and there. Finally we hit the Parada where the bus really filled up and we were on our way. The bus trip to San Jose de Ocoa is $160 pesos and takes around 2 hours and 45 minutes to 3 hours.

When I got to San Jose de Ocoa and got off the bus I asked the driver about hotels and told him about my adventure. He told me I should go to Rancho Arriba which is a little farther up the mountain. I figured, why not, so I got back on the bus and we were off again. This time I was in the front seat next to the driver.

The road started to get bad and wasn’t paved anymore. It was really bumpy as we weaved our way up the mountain and into, what seemed, the middle of nowhere. The driver turned off the air and told me to open the window. The breeze was so nice and cool and the air smelt so fresh and clean. I was really enjoying the ride and the view. Thank goodness the bus had great shocks for the bumpy road. All the twists, turns, bends and places where the road was looking like it could turn impassable at any moment, Julio Manuel did some good driving as we worked our way up the mountain.

An hour later, costing me $100 pesos more, and we were there. He dropped me off at a hotel Tell Apin where I checked in. Julio asked me if he could come back and buy me a beer later and, of course, I said sure.

The owner of the hotel, Fernando and his son were both very nice as were the employees. I got a room for $300 pesos (about $8us dollars). It was very basic but what more does one really need, bathroom, bed and a fan. I left me luggage in the room and went out to explore. Walked up to the large Colmado at the entrance to the little town for a beer.

I met some nice guys Aneurys and his friends from Nizao, a little town half way down the mountain. Aneurys is a coffee farmer with his father, he is 20 years old, has a wife and 2 children and has no email address. I just found that interesting for a man that age not having an email address. He invited me to his house next time I am there. We talked a bit then some guy speaking a little English talked to me, Luis, and he bought me a jumbo beer and left. I went back and sat with Aneurys and friends and shared the beer with another guy cause I couldn’t drink all that beer before it got hot.

The Colmado was starting to get full as dusk approached. The shiny leaves of the coffee bushes were shining on the hill in the distance. The Colmado was filling up mostly with people arriving on Motorbikes all lined up in a row on the street. Then the horse riders, Cabelleros, started arriving on beautiful horses some even had chaps and spurs on, these guys were real cowboys. But it was getting dark, Aneurys and friends had to go so I decided I best head back before dark as the Colmado was really filling up and I saw very few women there and no women alone. I had to make my escape to the comfort of the hotel.

I got back and had some yummy Mondongo and a few beers, including tip for $200 pesos. Then Julio Manuel, the bus driver, called and we went to his motorbike for a short ride. We talked a bit, then he took me back to the hotel and I went to the room, read a little and went to sleep.

It was a good day.

Day 2 – Monday
Woke, took a cold shower, watched the guy milking his cows by hand from the window in the room, packed up and went down to the restaurant in the hotel for breakfast and to figure out how to get back down the mountain. Fernando, the hotel owner, explained to me how to get back to San Jose de Ocoa and told me a bit about the area. I got my luggage and headed back to the Colmado from the night before to get a Guagua down the mountain.

There were a few people there that remembered me from the day before in that Colmado. When the Guagua came there was no way my back could handle sitting on plain wooden seats for the bumpy ride down the mountain. They offered me the front seat but it was no better. I didn’t want to seem like a picky American but I had to take care for my poor ole back so I waited for the next bus. It was the same. So I talked to a motoconcho guy about a ride down the hill on his bike. I told him he had to go slow and maybe make a few stops for pictures and he said $200 pesos for the 45-minute ride so I agreed. He tied my suitcase on the back and I hopped (not really hopped, mounted the bike very slowly is more like it) on the back and we were off.

The motor guy, Odalis, made a few stops for a beer here and one there. We danced to some bachata. I stopped here and there and took some pictures. There was an interesting cemetery and a waterfall. There was a funny drunk guy in one place. He kept hugging the pillar where he was sitting. Odalis and I named the pillar Rosa. We left before the drunk started making mad love to his cement Rosa. I just did not want to see that..lol. We made sandwiches in a Colmado, which is a very inexpensive way to eat when traveling.

Five and a half hours later Odalis pulled up in front of the hotel in San Jose de Ocoa. Hotel Marien. They have a restaurant, bar and nice basic hotel on the second floor. The prices in the bar are the same as a Colmado so I was content. I checked in for $600 pesos a night (about $16usd). They have cable TV, air-conditioning, hot water and clean rooms.It is located in the center of town directly across from the park, Parque Duarte.

I unpacked and went down to check the area out. Aneurys was going to visit but he couldn’t get down and back up the mountain before dark. I got some dinner in the hotel. Had some really great Monfongo and salad for under $200 pesos. Then I went to the bar. There were a few guys there having a good time and they invited me to sit with them, Wilkin and his friends. We started laughing and talking. We danced a little. We used the beer bottle as a microphone and sang a bachata song. Of course, I had no idea what the words were but I just sang whatever. They were laughing so hard. We did have fun. Then around 9PM I went to the room to enjoy the air and sleep. When I got there Julio Manuel, the bus driver called to see me but I was too comfy in the room so I told him he had to visit another day.

It was a good day

Day 3 – Tuesday

Odalis, the moto guy, said he would take me to the river for my time with my son Billy Jay. I called him and he had finished his morning work milking the cows on his farm and was already heading down the mountain to meet me. We went to eat some Empanadas and had some juice and coffee. We went to his sisters’ house to visit for a little bit. Then he got a call from someone he needed to take for their documents and he had to go. He said he could not take me to the river and he was sorry. So I had to find someone to take me to a river.

I went back to the hotel and met an older gentleman, Jose, and we had a beer. Then I went to the corner to talk to the motoconcho drivers. The one guy was very rude and wanted $400pesos to take me for 2 hours. That was just too much and I really didn’t like the way he was acting. Then out of nowhere, the guy I met when in Rancho Arriba, Luis, came by. I told him what I needed. He was finished working, he only worked a half day, and he said he could take me for free. So I got on his bike and we were off with the motoconcho driver yelling behind that he could take me for less money.

Luis took me to a river where there was very little water running (the river was messed up because of tropical storm Irene that passed by. They said the water was over the bridge). He let me walk to the water and be alone for a while.

He told me about some Taino cave that wasn’t too far and if I wanted to go there. Of course I said yes. We started driving on these little dirt roads sparsely populated with little wooden and corrugated steel house and small farms. The road turned intro a trail and still there were homes here and there. It was a bit difficult on the bike as both Luis and I are large people. But we finally got to this little creek where the water was so cool and clear. The trail ended. You had to cross the creek and go on a walking trail the rest of the trip to the Cueva Indios. I did not bring the right kind of shoes for creek walking and was not prepared for this so we just stayed there. He sat on the rock and I walked around the woods for about a half hour. It was just what I needed for my time with Billy Jay.

We headed back to civilization and were almost back into Ocoa when he realized that he left his backpack on the rock. He dropped me at a gas station, here called a Bomba, bar and went back cause it would be faster if he went alone then he would come back and get me. Well, the bar was closed so I went off walking down the road for a Colmado.

There was one a few streets away owned by an older couple. I got a beer and we talked a bit. Their lights were out but the beer was still cold. They were so sweet. I enjoyed the conversation very much. Then I saw Luis passing by on his bike. I called his cell as he entered the bomba. Told him to turn right on the road and I was there. Well, he turned the wrong way so I had to call and tell him to turn the other right. He came back and then he took me back to the town. He went home and I went to the Supermercado Massiel (friendly staff and one man working there speaks English) near the hotel and got some food to eat in the room. I got some ice and a big pitcher of water and retired for the evening at around 6.

It was a difficult day knowing it was the day Billy Jay died but it was the prefect way to spend this day.

Day 4 – Wednesday

I wanted to spend this day checking out the town of San Jose de Ocoa. I went out for a walkabout. It is a nice little town were most of the homes are wooden or palm wood. It is very clean and well kept. There is very little trash in the streets. The people are friendly but not overly so.

I passed the Fire Station, the Bomberos. There was a very old fire truck so I took a picture and the firemen came out and we talked a bit. They were very nice and told me a little about the Cuerpo de los Bomberos.

I saw a nice little park filled with wonderful shade trees. There was a group of kids fighting the beta fish. I talked to some men sitting in front of their house and one took me in his house to meet his dying mother whom he was taking care of. I don’t know if she even knew we were there but I talked to her for a little bit anyhow and then was off again.

Wilken called to meet me for a beer so I stopped at Colomado Andujar to wait for him. The older gentleman I met the other day, Jose, was there so we had some laughs. The owner is a Dominican York and spoke English. The kid working there whom I named Motorconcho (they thought that was funny because here it is not motorconcho it is motoconcho), kept asking me to introduce him to an American woman so I took his picture to share with the world. As usual, Wilken never showed up but it didn’t matter because I had a great time. I left to meet the bus driver, Julio Manuel, at the bus station at 3. We talked for a few minutes and we made a date for later in the evening. I went back to the hotel to take a nap.

Woke and met Julio Manuel at the bus station at 8PM and we went to have a hamburger at some street vendor place. The burgers were only $50 pesos each where here in the Capital the price is double that easily. We had a beer and talked a while then I went to the room and to sleep.

It was another good day

Day 5 – Thursday Going home

Woke around 10AM, got ready, packed up and met Julio Manuel for a coffee. He waited with me for my bus back to Santo Domingo. Then I was off on the bus home. Talked to a lady for a while but mainly the trip was very uneventful.

I walked into my apartment around noon breathing a sigh of relief. I was in my own home again. The trip was wonderful but it is always so nice when I get into my own home with my own TV, my own kitchen, my own bed and all my stuff.

It was a great trip. I met some very nice people, a few of whom will be friends for a long time. I also got to spend time way in the country along a babbling creek, time alone remembering my baby boy, Billy Jay.

Pigeons in Colonial Zone rain storm

These goats were taking a stroll down the street in the town of Palenque, Dominican Republic.

Some goats taking a stroll

A friend, Doug, took me to Palenque for the day and this is a great view from the road.

A view in Palenque, Dominican Republic

This is me with some friends of mine hanging out at the Colmado I call Colmado Oficina (really the name is Colmado Omar II) in Colonial Zone.

Hanging with friends

This is the chickens and roosters that call the patio behind the office home. They cluck and crow all day. The customers from the gift shop in the front always have interesting words to say when they go to use the bathroom and see the chicken farm behind the business. Who woulda thunk?? Right in the heart of the Colonial City in Santo Domingo…

The chickens behind the office

If you want to see the full size pictures click on them.

The owner is a nice guy and he invited me for a few beers. We were drinking, telling stories and having a nice ole time when a friend of his joined us. Mr. Teeth(as I’ll call him throughout this story)was a bit drunk already and started telling me how he was in love with me. He kept putting his hand on my leg while talking. He was getting a bit too familiar so I asked him very nicely to please don’t touch me. I don’t like it. He would stop and then a few minutes later start again. I moved my chair a little away from him and he followed. Finally I decided I had to be a bit more forceful so maybe he would bet it through his head I did not like being touched. So I told him a sentence that I learned my first time on vacation in Santo Domingo, “Quintas sus manos sucios de me”! (roughly translated “Get your dirty hands off of me” and I’m not sure if I say it correctly or spell it right but you get the idea).

Mr. Teeth opened his mouth in shock ready to say something. When he opened his mouth his false teeth flew out and landed on the sidewalk! He had a look of shock on his face. I had to do the ole double take going from his face to the ground where his teeth lay. After the initial few second shock, I didn’t want to embarrass him, I turned and started talking to my friend. Mr. Teeth grabbed up his dentures and hurriedly put them on the chair between his legs.

I was trying not to laugh. I really, really tried not to laugh.My friend was snickering the entire time and I was holding it in as best as I could. But when I looked at him, he was putting the teeth back in, I lost it. I was laughing so hard I couldn’t breathe. Many times when I laugh too hard I snort and this was one of those times. My friend and I were laughing so hard, we couldn’t stop. I tried to stop because I didn’t want to humiliate Mr. Teeth but I couldn’t help it, especially when my friend was laughing just as hard as I. I decided it was best just to get out of there. I told my friend I had to go. I tried to say goodbye to Mr. Teeth but I just couldn’t. I had to walk down the street alone laughing aloud to myself all alone.

All the rest of the day every time I thought of it I started laughing. People probably thought I was a bit off walking alone and giggling but it could not be helped. I’m even laughing now just picturing good ole Mr. Teeth and the look on his face when his teeth shot out of his mouth. Am I a bad human for this?? LOL!

this is a little added on note I had to get permission to write about from my mom:
The thing that really made me laugh when I could not hold it in anymore was thinking of my mother. My nephew, who was very shy and afraid when he was young as he was adopted and not used to our boisterous style of family, was playing with my mom. She was holding him above her balanced on her feet. All were laughing and having a good time when her teeth flew out! My nephew got this look of fear on his face and a giant scream came out of his mouth. He wouldn’t stop crying and yelling for a while and it took him days, maybe months before he was able to sit with his grandmother without being afraid her teeth were not going to come out.

This is what made me laugh more at the Mr. Teeth guy. I laughed at my mom as did the entire family (except the frightened nephew) so I think I had a right to laugh at Mr. Teeth didn’t I?

Sunday I went to meet an American friend his girlfriend and baby for lunch at the
Courtyard Marriott Santo Domingo
(the taxi driver missunderstood me and dropped me at the Mejia first so remember if you take a taxi to the Marriott make sure the guy gets it right as both of those words sound similar to a Dominican). I was planning on walking back for my traditional Sunday walkabout but it was raining, like it has been for the last month, so I had their taxi drop my off in the Zone in front of one of my favorite neighborhood Colmados, Colmado El Arca.

We were all squished inside as it just kept drizzling rain outside. I got the cheep beer 3 grandes for $110 pesos and joined in all the conversations going on. A neighbor guy known for his over drinking started getting boisterous as he does sometimes. He loves to cause a scene especially when he’s playing dominoes. Well, his mom came and was yelling at him and telling him to get home. He was yelling at her and all the men inside went out to get involved. Of course, I didn’t understand all the stuff being said as everyone was talking way too fast for me and the music was playing inside and i was not going to go outside in all the turmoil. Normally when things like this happen I’m outta there but we all know the drunk guy and I did not feel at all concerned about my safety.

I was sitting on the little patio at this time talking to an Amiga not worrying about the grandstanding happening a few arms length away from where we were sitting. The guy came running into the Colmado . All of a sudden the owner of the place tore off his glasses and came out from the counter and jumped on the guy. The space is really small so all the guys around were falling to the ground while the owner was pouncing on the drunk guy. The guys that were all involved picked the drunk up off the floor and some others got between the owner and the drunk. All within a very confined space. They took the drunk outside and the owner (I thought his face was going to explode as he gets really red when he gets angry) went back behind the counter. This skinny, tall drunk was jumping around and the guys were almost holding him off the ground as he was doing his yelling and punching the air (yes, he was that drunk). A few times he and the interveners went to the ground but they got him under control. They took him home with the mother following.

When the drunk was gone then the machismo stuff started. All the men were telling their side of the story, at least 10 times over. My Amiga and I were watching from the patio and laughing at them. They looked like a flock, herd, gaggle, whatever you call a bunch of roosters hanging out trying to make the most noise over the next rooster. They were all laughing and sharing their versions. It was quite comical.

About an hour later the drunk guy returned, with his mother close behind, to apologize and shake everyones hand. He went back home to sleep it off and of course the men had more to talk about loudly.

I have seen this scenario happen many times in Dominican Republic with only one time the fight getting out of hand. Usually it is just some sort of show for everyone to watch (sometimes get involved in) and to discuss in detail for the rest of the day. Quite an interesting phenomena.

I took a walk from Colonial Zone to Ave. Lincoln and from there decided to go and get some chicharones (yes, I like chicharones) in the place that is known for making them, Villa Mella. I thought that maybe Xiomara and Jana would want to go so I gave them a call. It ended up that Jana and I went on this trip together. So I took my daughter (not really mine but she calls me mom).

The Metro was really nice and clean. I was impressed. It was really strange taking public transportation in Dominican Republic where there was no music being played, people were fairly quiet. It was very organized and all went smoothly.

After about 20 minutes we were in Villa Mella, the chicharone capital of DR and looking for a place to get some of that good, greasy and scrumptious pig skin and meat. We walked down a dirt road and stopped in the first colmado. Me for my beloved Presidente beer and Jana got a juice and some gum (she was so excited to find gum for 1 peso). The people sitting outside were very friendly and got us chairs and talked to us a bit. Very nice people. I even had to impress them with my mastery of dancing bachata (seems that people here are always surprised that I can dance bachata half way decent). We asked where was the best place close to get some chicherones and they directed us to a small, nice little restaurant called Tipico Villa Mella. The place is located on Ramon Matias Mella #77 and their phone is 809-568-1131 incase your ever in the area I highly recommend this place.

We placed our order or chicherones (both the hard and soft kind) and some batada (for info on these foods and more) and played with the cat until our food arrived. The food was great and so fresh, for sure different than buying it from the guys in Colonial Zone. The restaurant was playing some old music and the people were all friendly. They even gave us a taste of some foods that I never heard of. Jana has lived here most of her 10 years and she never heard of these either. I even did a search in Google and could not find these foods or what they were made of. But we had some chola and bobote (if anyone knows what the recipe is please let me know). One of these foods is yucca with coconut and the other, who knows. But it was all good. Even better with all the food, a beer and juice the bill was only $250 pesos. What a deal.

We decided to do a walk about but not too far from the Metro entrance so we would not get lost. We fed some pigeons. Talked to some people in different colmados. Then went back to the train as it was just starting to get dark.

We were a little more talkative for the ride back. We were playing with Janas little toy horses and laughing. One guy told us we should be a little more quiet as the police in the train was watching us. Could we be removed from the train for talking and laughing in a normal voice? Well, we weren’t removed and got back to the first station. From there we walked back to Colonial Zone. It was a far walk, maybe an hour or so and we were so tired when we got back home. We had some stories to tell Xiomara when we got back all dirty and sweaty with happy content tummies.

I also discovered that each larger neighborhood is divided into smaller sections. (I’m trying to find out the exact information about Colonial Zone to place on the web site). I believe there are about 8 different sectors inside the Colonial Zone area. Each voting for their own President, Vice President, Secretary and so on.

I got to watch my old neighborhoods vote (I could not vote as I don’t live in that section now. I hope to vote in the Parque Duarte elections coming up in a few weeks) and it was a serious matter indeed. There was even a policeman watching over the elections. There was a designated committee to take care of the voting table and to count these votes.

The first step is to go to the table where the committee sits, sign in and take the ballot. Go over to the table with the policeman and write your selection (this table was a dominoes board which I thought was very interesting and quite official looking). The next step is to go to the big box to deposit your vote. Then sit and wait for the results, conversing with the neighbors and maybe partaking of your liquid of choice.

At 5 the voting was finished. It started raining so the election board guys moved into the Colmado owned by one for these guys, Colmado Arca. The place got especially packed and loud as the votes were being counted. One of the counters had to even call for silence as this was a very critical moment in the electoral process.

I moved outside to wait for the results because there were just too many people inside the small Colmado. Soon after there was clapping and lots of commotion at the Colmado as the winner was announced. People were clapping and singing as they left the Colmado to share the results with everyone. It seems that the victors won by only 3 votes. Now lets hope her and her team will bring some good parties to the park and also do some good things for my old neighborhood.